Civic Big Brake Kit Install Guide
Congratulations and thank you for your purchase of the Wunderladen Racing Big Brake Kit for your 8/9/10/11th Generation Honda Civic! This guide will cover all steps to install this product on your vehicle and hopefully answer any questions you may have related to it. If you have any questions that this guide does not cover, please contact us via email at Note: This guide was written using a 10th generation Civic so some details (like bolt head sizes) may differ for other generations.
- (2) EBC Apollo 4 brake calipers (included)
- (2) Wunderladen Racing caliper brackets (included)
- (2) EBC rotors (included if purchased)
- (1) Set of brake pads (required)
- (4) Copper crush washers (included)
- (4) M12 bracket mounting bolts (included)
- (4) M10 socket head cap screws (included)
- 17mm socket
- 16mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 8mm allen socket
- 6mm allen socket
- Torque wrench
- 10mm line wrench (if replacing brake lines)
- #3 phillips head screwdriver (or impact driver)
- Mechanic's wire or zip ties
- Brake bleeder bottle
- Safely secure vehicle on jacks stands and remove front wheels. Performing the following steps on the passenger side followed by the driver side is preferred to make brake bleeding easier.
- Remove the 12mm headed bolt that attaches the brake hose to the strut.
- Remove the two 17mm headed bolts that attach the caliper to the steering knuckle, remove caliper from the rotor and hang it from the strut with either mechanic's wire or zip ties.
- Remove the #3 phillips head screw securing the rotor to the hub and remove the rotor from the hub.
- Clean off any corrosion from the face of the hub and the mounting ears on the steering knuckle.
- Install the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle with the supplied 16mm headed flange bolts. The bolt heads will face the rotor as shown. Torque to 80 ft/lbs.
- Install the new rotor onto the hub and hold it in place with a lug nut. Check to make sure there is clearance on the backside of the dust shield, if it rubs bend the shield inward to make clearance. The tips of the dust shield at the top and bottom of the caliper opening also need to be bent inward slightly to make clearance for the larger caliper. Note: The dust shield shown above was heavily trimmed for a previously installed brake kit.
- Install the caliper to the caliper bracket using the supplied 8mm drive socket head cap screws. Torque to 50 ft/lbs. The bleed screws should be pointed upwards. Check that there is at least 1mm of clearance between the rotor and caliper body on both sides of the rotor.
- Remove the bridge bolt and sleeve to install the brake pads into the caliper. We recommend trimming and adding the anti noise pads to back of the brake pads as well as using brake lube on the top and bottom of the pads to avoid noise issues.
- Install the pad spring and reinstall the bridge bolt and sleeve. Torque the bridge bolt to 10 ft/lbs using the 6mm allen socket.
- Remove the banjo bolt from the factory caliper (if reusing the brake lines) and install the brake hose onto the new caliper with the supplied crush washers. Torque to 18 ft/lbs.
- If using new brake lines then install the banjo side to the caliper as shown above and install the other end to the hardline using a 10mm line wrench.
- Reinstall the 12mm headed bolt securing the brake hose to the strut. Torque to 16 ft/lbs.
- Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir and bleed air from the caliper, starting with the inboard bleed screw followed by the outboard bleed screw. Be sure that the fluid level does no go below the minimum point on the reservoir while bleeding.
- Repeat steps 2-14 on the driver side.
- Before taking the vehicle on a test drive be sure to pump the brake pedal until it is hard to get the pads seated against the rotors. Check for leaks and address any that are found.
- Reinstall the front wheels, torque the lugs nuts and remove the vehicle from the jack stands.